Date: February 12, 2010 @ 1:24 PM
Back to School
I attended law school last week. (While shocking, that is NOT a lie!) Given that my dad and grandfather were lawyers, it wouldn't seem that far out of line unless you know me. I am a winemaker, never took the LSAT, and the Berkeley admissions staff would have justifiably assumed any application from me was submitted as a prank and been forced to check their calendars to see if it was April 1st.
They have a class that is studying the legal issues that concern "Products of Place". While I immediately assume that this course is 99% about wine (and therefore totally fascinating), they are considering lots of other products; cheese, coffee, spices, etc. (wine, wine, wine).
What makes these products special or unique? How did they develop? How should they be defined? Is there a best way to protect them going forward? Do the regulations and laws work? (I am sure that there are plenty of “whereas, writs, briefs and other legal words to confuse us mortals… but they didn’t reveal them around me.)
For a law class, this seemed like interesting stuff.
I was invited to speak because Richard, their professor, knows Nickel & Nickel single-vineyard wines, and figured that the wines could demonstrate "Products of Place" even if (or when) my presentation tanked. Essentially it was "Show 'n Tell" for adults with a message.
So...what did we figure out?
1 - Products of Place are real. ie In the case of our wines, we can tell that each one tastes different to another based on where it comes from. (We discussed "terroir" and concluded that the English language still needs a word that fully captures the concept of a product that has a recognizable personality due to all of the natural and human factors which affect the growing and making of it. Let me know if you find a single word that elegantly encapsulates that mouthful. In the meantime, saying “terroir” makes me look wine knowledgeable in front of the restaurant sommelier who would prefer to dismiss me.
2 - Products of Place come from areas that have developed entirely differently from other areas that otherwise seem related. What made for those differences and are they critical to protecting its future?
The "Old World" appellations such as Burgundy evolved in a time when wine was a local product. It was probably too much of a hassle to transport it (or they just preferred to quaff it from the barrel.) They learned to grow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but now protect nearly every aspect of growing, winemaking and marketing through extensive rules and laws.
The "New World" appellations such as Napa Valley have been defined by their geographic borders. These areas tend to experiment and innovate to improve quality but don't seem as cohesive and consistent.
Each type of area, with its Products of Place, has its strengths and weaknesses. Neither one can be viewed as better but it will continue to need grape growers, winemakers, and rulemakers (likely lawyers) to figure out how to best protect them in the future. It is equally certain that the needs will vary according to the needs of each place if they are to continue making "Products of Place" that express the local personality and flavor.
Other than the tasting (the good part) you just got the cliff notes for one Boalt law school class.
We tasted our Carneros Truchard Chardonnay beside our Russian River Searby Chardonnay. We tasted the Russian River Ponzo Zinfandel beside the Dry Creek Bonfire Zinfandel and we tasted the St. Helena Dragonfly Cabernet beside the Vogt Howell Mountain Cabernet. Each was identifiably, "A Product of Place" - also tasted pretty good.
I don't know much about law school, but I am pretty sure that our class has better show and tell than "contracts." (Good thing they weren't studying legal issues around toxic waste!)
